Twelve Shades of Arctic Light – How Tromsø Changes Through the Year

When is the best time to see the Northern Lights? How long does the Midnight Sun shine? And when does the city feel most alive? In Tromsø, light and atmosphere change from month to month — shaping how we move, meet and spend time outdoors. The seasons are not just weather here; they are stages of the year that people live with, not just through.

From the deep, blue Polar Night to the bright months when the sun never sets; from glittering spring snow to soft, golden autumn afternoons — Tromsø’s mood shifts more clearly with the seasons than in most places. Every month has its own beauty, its own pace, and its own favourite activities.

This guide takes you through the year, one month at a time. We include how the light changes, typical temperatures, festivals and everyday life — and whether to pack long johns, a shell jacket or swimwear.

The idea is simple: there is no wrong time to visit — only different ways of being here.

January goes from darkness to winter light:

The new year is engulfed in the Polar Night – yet you can literally see the daylight increase from day to day in January, and by mid-January the sun is back for a few minutes.

Be prepared for some of the coldest days of the year; temperatures below –10°C are most likely towards the end of the month. The snow starts to accumulate, and it is common to wake up to 20 cm of fluffy powder. Rain is, however, also an option.

There are many tours available, and good headlamps compensate for the lack of daylight. The Northern Lights have plenty of darkness to dance in.

February is the coldest month of the year:

We are in the depth of winter, and especially early in the month we can expect cold days. Still, temperatures are rarely extreme in Tromsø – the cold record is a modest –18°C. The snow keeps piling up, and this is the month when everything is properly white. Longer days draw locals out for more skiing and outdoor life. Snowshoeing, dogsledding and snowmobiling – conditions are often perfect.

The city centre is pleasant in broad daylight, but the evenings are dark, wintry and atmospheric. And the Northern Lights? They have good, long nights to dance in.

March is the snowiest month:

Often, there more than a metre of snow in Tromsø towards the end of the month. The temperatures are on the rise, often above freezing in the daytime, and the light feels stronger every day. This is the month for long ski days, backcountry adventures and plenty of outdoor time. Yet the nights are still dark enough for the Northern Lights — so you can combine aurora watching with skiing and sightseeing in bright daylight hours.

April is the brilliant last act of winter:

Spring? Nope. According to the locals, this is the best winter month. The snow is still deep, the days are long, and the temperatures are mild in the sunshine. This is the time for the longest cross-country ski treks, the best off-piste, relaxed ice fishing, and slow hours in the sun on a reindeer hide. Calm seas and dry, stable weather invite you to explore the islands and coastline by kayak.

People in town take their coffee outside — with mittens on. Evenings are still cold, and waking up to a light snowfall is perfectly normal. But the light is everywhere, and it feels generous.

May is the only spring month:

May brings a mix of seasons. In early May the snow can still be knee-deep, while by the end of the month the forest turns green. Temperatures vary widely — a snow shower is no surprise to the locals, yet a stretch of summer warmth may also arrive. And from the 18th of May, the Midnight Sun is back for the season.

Die-hard skiers enjoy some of the finest spring touring in the mountains, and kayaking and fishing are excellent along the coast. Many locals simply stroll the main street in sunglasses, taking in the light.

June is uninterrupted daylight:

June is the brightest month of the year — the sun remains above the horizon the whole time. Temperatures can be on the cool side, and a snow shower in early June is not unheard of. So is a warm spell with temperatures above 20°C. Wildflowers burst into colour along the fjords, while snow still lingers in the mountains.

The light makes us carefree, happy — and a little bit restless. People stay up late, go for long walks, fish from the pier at midnight, kayak in golden light, and hike just because the evening feels too beautiful to end. Tromsø’s main street has a cheerful, unhurried summer atmosphere — the kind where everyone is outdoors simply because why would you go inside?

July is the exception month:

July brings the warmest days of the year, and the Midnight Sun shines almost to the end of the month. On sunny days, outdoor cafés fill up, and Tromsø’s legendary nightlife takes place in broad daylight. Hiking, glacier hikes, kayaking and fishing trips are all popular — one simply cannot sleep away all this light.

Many locals are away on holiday, while others work shorter days, so everyday life feels relaxed. This is the time for hytta by the sea, long days on the beach (including 30 seconds in the water), and slow hikes with no urgency at all.

August is the return to normality:

Summer temperatures often continue well into August, and the forests are full of blueberries, cloudberries and mushrooms. Work life and school start up again after mid-month, and people return to their routines — but gently. Evenings begin to grow darker, and cafés and bars fill with locals eager to catch up after the summer break.

This is many locals’ favourite month for hiking: the air is clear, the trails are dry, and the mountains are at their most inviting. Glacier hikes are especially good now. In the last week of August, a small nip in the air and the first touches of colour in the mountains quietly suggest that autumn is on its way.

September is colourful – day and night

In September, the mountains are dressed in ochre, with red, orange and green interspersed. Clear, crisp days invite hiking in cool temperatures — this is a favourite month for many locals. You may wake up to a thin layer of snow in the morning, but it usually melts during the day.

The Northern Lights grow stronger through the month. In the first half, they may appear softly; in the latter half, the tilt of the Earth favours some spectacular shows. Darker evenings invite candle-lit togetherness in Tromsø’s many cafés, bars and living rooms — autumn here is social.

October is beautiful melancholy

Every day gets shorter. The sunlight at midday is low and golden, and the trees stand bare. October carries a touch of melancholy — but a beautiful one. Snowfalls are normal, and so are mild rainstorms that wash the snow away again. The season hesitates a little here.

Days are shorter, so hikes tend to be shorter too — but this is a wonderful month for being in the city: museum visits, cafés, cinema evenings and long conversations. With the early dark, the cultural scene and nightlife both gain intensity. And for the Northern Lights, this is prime time — many locals simply take a long walk into the forest to watch the sky breathe green.

November is when winter settles — slowly, and for good

Winter comes and goes in November; snow is not guaranteed. Some days are white, some are rainy, and many are somewhere in between. The sun is still visible in town during the first half of the month, but on the 28th of November it slips below the horizon for the season.

Around Skjervøy, the orcas and humpback whales are feeding on herring — guided tours leave from the Tromsø region to these waters, and it is one of the great seasonal experiences. The bustling maritime activity last until early February.

If there is enough snow, all kinds of winter activities are available. If not, the city centre is a very good place to be: the Christmas lights begin to glow, and cafés fill with warmth and conversation.

December is dark and atmospheric

There is no sun at all in December, but in the middle of the day there is a dawn of red, orange, pink and gold. The last light in the early afternoon is a deep, transparent blue.

But you soon discover you do not need the sun: the city centre glows with Christmas lights, and your headlamp makes sure you see your dogs when sledding.

The atmosphere in town is gentle and festive, and a glass of gløgg can even be enjoyed outdoors — wrapped up and unhurried.