From fjord to fork: Where to eat seafood up north

What is Norwegian fish to you? Salmon rings a bell for many. After all, we gave the world salmon sushi – a pineapple-on-pizza phenomenon that went global, to the dismay of purists in Japan and everywhere. To housewives in the Dominican Republic or Naples, it probably means dry, salted fish served during Lent. For folks in the American Midwest, it’s lutefisk – a wobbly, glistening blob of cod with a smell you never quite forget, whether you want to or not. To our Danish and Swedish neighbours, it’s simply the butt of all jokes. And it’s all of this – and so much more.

This is your edible compass: a guide to fish and seafood for anyone using Tromsø as a gateway to the north. Where, when, how and why. Or just follow the smell.

Where do you eat fish?

Fish restaurants are a relatively new thing up north. After all, no one used to cook fish better than mum. Restaurants were for a good steak. But mums have enough on their plate these days – which opened the door to a whole new business. Tromsø now has several places that specialise in fish and seafood. Many more make fish a central part of the menu, and the multi-course tasting menus currently in vogue give us all a chance to try new things – fish included.

Harstad has a small but select gourmet scene. In smaller towns, menus often just say “fish of the day” or “today’s catch” – meaning whatever the local fisherman happened to haul in. And even the roadside joints along the highways, known more for burgers and pizza, tend to have a solid fish dish on standby. This is, after all, fish country.

How is the fish served?

Traditional fish dishes can be an acquired taste. Take lutefisk, for example—a wobbly, glistening cod soaked in lye, poached until tender, with a smell that lingers whether you like it or not. Then there’s boknafisk—semi-dried cod, also poached—and mølja, a plate of poached cod with liver and roe.

Easier to love are perfectly flaking halibut with hollandaise, pan-fried cod with a good sauce, or saithe fillets topped with caramelised onions. Shellfish—crabs, prawns, and the like—used to be bait, but up north, they’re now treated like royalty. Usually, they come with as little fuss as possible.

Keep an eye out for recipes from Italy, Spain, southern France, Portugal, and Brazil, where dried or salted Norwegian cod is given a local twist. On menus, look for “bacalao” or “bolinhos.” Then there’s fiskemat—fish cakes, fish pudding, fish gratin – like a fish pie, and plukkfisk (leftover fish in béchamel)—the kind of food mum used to make, but with modern chefs putting their spin on it.

Uncompromisingly fishy places in Tromsø

If fish is your main reason for heading north, Tromsø’s specialists won’t disappoint. Each has its own character, but all share a deep passion for seafood—whether it’s uncompromisingly fresh, cured the old-fashioned way, faithful to grandma’s recipes, or boldly breaking with tradition.

Arctandria is loud, humorous, and endlessly popular with locals, serving traditional fish dishes amid maritime clutter in a cosy old factory. Fiskekompaniet (“The Fish Company”) is dedicated to perfectly cooked fish and seafood, with just the right kick of sauce and spice, set in modern elegance overlooking the harbour. Be warned: the smoked roe at Full Steam is so addictive, you might not want to try anything else on their menu of traditional fish inside an old warehouse. Fangst (“Catch”) strikes a balance between fresh seafood, Nordic simplicity, and quiet respect for tradition—with sweeping views of the Tromsø Sound.

…and if your travel company is picky…

Some of Tromsø’s best spots strike a clever balance between fish and meat—perfect for groups divided by taste or dietary needs. Smak (“Taste”) is the city’s culinary star, serving the season’s bounty on a parade of flavourful small plates. This is a meal that calls for a whole evening of indulgence. Next door, Ruda offers a more laid-back, spontaneous vibe—with cheeky flavours and refined touches that surprise and delight.

Mathallen (“The Food Hall”) brings elegant dishes made from trusted suppliers in fishing villages and fjord farms, all wrapped up in a modern, industrial setting. Their lighter lunches have earned them local love.

Young, informal, and playful, Hildr isn’t afraid to bring tastes from the ends of the earth to local fish, all served in an 1840 townhouse. Start with a cocktail to set the tone. At Emma’s, elegant tasting menus take you on a seasonal journey through Northern Norway—with white tablecloths, linen napkins, and a view of the cathedral. The cocktails here? No shortage.

Skirri, right on the main square, plays two roles: a warm, softly lit cocoon indoors with deep textures, and a loud, lively terrace in summer. Fish lovers get king crab and shellfish fix, while carnivores rest easy—there’s steak on the menu. Bardus (“Out of the Blue”) is homey, charming, and eclectic in menu, interior, and service—the perfect place to wind down and share a laugh.

Fish. No Fuss

Fish works in mysterious ways. Take the little kiosk in Nordre Tollbugate—it sometimes opens just to serve a fiskekake wrapped in a napkin, turning fish into fast food on the go. Dragøy, the local fish shop that’s been around forever, sells small seafood delights and lets you build your own seafood plate – named Sea Sushi & Ramen.

And then there’s Yonas, the pizza old-timer in Tromsø, borderline crazy to some—two of their pizzas feature klippfisk, dried and salted cod prepared Mediterranean-style.

Senja offers simple, homely fare

Senja is a fairy tale island, dotted with small fishing villages on the wild ocean side and scattered farms along its sheltered inner coast. The food selection might not be vast, but independent travellers find hearty, honest meals at cosy, home-style spots. With a little planning, some of the best fish dishes in the north are right here.

In Mefjordvær’s Salteriet, Steinfjord’s Fat Cod, Hamn i Senja’s Storbrygga, and Torsken’s Senja By Heart, you’ll find proper fish fare: cod, halibut, prawns, shellfish, and locally farmed salmon. Simple, unpretentious, but served with care and a touch of finesse. Fish is, after all, the lifeblood of Senja.

At Senjastua, it’s tradition to bring grandma along for her birthday—to enjoy a warm, homemade meal that feels just like home. Skreien spiseri, in both Gryllefjord and Finnsnes, serves rustic, seasonal dishes. Segla grill og pub in Fjordgård is the place for fish and chips with a beer, in a setting that feels like a community hall.

The new Mulegga restaurant at Storm Hotel Senja leans towards fine dining, with seafood menus and views over the fjord through big windows. Meanwhile, Stornaustet—the big boathouse—at Sommarøy (just on the way to Tromsø, not quite Senja) is homelier and always worth a visit, especially for today’s catch.

Refined tastebuds, Harstad-style

Tromsø’s prettier little sister, Harstad, has quietly earned a reputation for good food. Its charming town centre, dotted with colourful art nouveau buildings, invites a stroll before or after dinner. But a heads-up: book tables ahead at these top spots.

Umami, named after the fifth taste, has been voted the best restaurant in Northern Norway. It focuses on natural flavours from local, seasonal ingredients, served simply and artistically by a team of young, talented chefs.

Bark offers a relaxed, informal menu that balances hearty traditional dishes with inventive modern twists. Set on a centuries-old estate, Røkenes Gård serves traditional northern food made from local ingredients, all in quiet, historic surroundings.

Fish in the Lyngen Alps and beyond

The majestic Lyngen Alps and the surrounding fjords and islands offer scenery that’s as breathtaking as it is remote. Two popular stops along the E6—Vollan Gjestestue in Nordkjosbotn and Bios Café in Storslett—serve up hearty local food in cosy, tasteful settings. Both have won awards for generous portions and authentic flavours. When the queue is full of lorries and locals chatting in dialect, you know you’re in the real deal.

Further north, at the tip of the Lyngen Alps, Bøteriet is a small restaurant serving fish dishes so close to the water you might catch the eider ducks eyeing your plate. Emmers Restaurant in Nord-Lenangen offers a simple, eclectic menu with international influences. Both have limited opening hours, so check before you go.

Fish to go: Take some fish home

Bringing a taste of the north back home is always a good idea. Dried cod—stockfish—in bags makes for tasty, fun, and healthy snacks that go perfectly with whatever you’re sipping. It also keeps jaws moving—in more ways than one.

Klippfisk, dried and salted cod, is another northern classic. Soak it, simmer it, and serve it to friends with stories from your trip. Seaweed spices are not your average BBQ seasoning—they’re wilder, cleaner, and straight from the tide.

A small slice of cured seafood makes a great gift—and fits neatly in your suitcase. Traditional smoked salmon is a crowd-pleaser, often paired with scrambled eggs. Less familiar but equally tasty is gravlaks—salmon cured in dill and spices—usually served on rye bread with mustard sauce. Smoked Greenland halibut makes a great starter, perhaps as a canapé with sour cream. And capelin roe? Be warned: it can stir up more than just appetites.