Tromsø is touted by many as one of the best places in the world to see the northern lights. However, many believe the only way to actually see the lights is to leave the city, but this isn’t true!
If you prefer to hunt for the lights on your own terms and in close proximity to the city, read on! Here we present some of the best locations on, or near, the island of Tromsøya (Tromsø island) for viewing the northern lights. These locations are all in walking/ bus distance from the centre of town, so bear in mind that there will always be a degree of light pollution, but it shouldn’t hinder your viewing if skies are partly clear/ clear. Being on the coastline, the city benefits from gulf stream warmth meaning even in the depths of winter, the temperature rarely drops below -15 celsius. However, it is important to remember that when undertaking any of these trips it is at your own risk, and in the winter time wrap up warm, wear reflective markers, use spikes on your shoes if icy and if needed bring a head torch.
You can see the northern lights in town
If you’re on a business trip, you only have a few hours to spare and the sky is clear, or it’s not possible to take a tour due to mobility issues. Then the following suggestions are for you, as there are some places right in the centre of town that you can see a good display. If you see stars, even if there is a little cloud, it may be worth visiting these locations just in case.
The Harbour area offers lights and pints
Many locations along the waterfront of the city actually have dark enough zones to see lights looking over towards the Arctic Cathedral. The best two areas we recommend are the stretch between the Scandic Ishavshotel and Kaia restaurant. And then outside Kystens hus if no boats are docked. You will likely find many other city visitors there on a clear night, stood ready with camera and tripod.
- Difficulty – Very easy
- Light pollution – Moderate to High
- Photography Potential – Challenging
The North jetty takes you out onto the sound
This is a favourite location among aurora photographers because from here you can see the Arctic Cathedral and city bridge standing together. Simply walk towards the base of the bridge and follow the route underneath. When you reach the water’s edge, turn right and continue to follow the route out onto the jetty/ pier.
- Difficulty – Very easy
- Light pollution – Moderate to High
- Photography Potential – Good
Practical questions about Tromsø
– Violent crimes are almost unheard of. No worries!
– Theft happens, but probably less than where you come from. Don’t leave expensive camera gear unattended.
– In winter, it’s slippery everywhere! Make sure you have crampons!
– Tourists walking about can be difficult to spot by drivers. Make sure that you have a reflective vest!
– Some locals are tired of tourist trodding into their gardens. Make sure you respect private property.
For the latitude, Tromsø is surprisingly mild. There is a long, mild autumn with single-digit temperatures above freezing, perfect for looking for the lights. Sometimes in October to December (it seems to be later and later, expect in the autumn of 2019…), the snow settles on the ground. Temperatures in January-February can drop below -15 at night. Make sure you dress in layers, and have extra clothes to put on when you’re waiting for the lights.
We have to be frank; the weather and cloud cover in Tromsø are highly variable. The beauty with a Northern Lights guide is that he takes you wherever there are clear skies in the area, thereby dramatically increasing your chances of seeing the lights. However, if you’re here for several days, you may want to do it on your own some evenings, especially with a good weather forecast.
– Locals pay with their mobile phones, most of the time. Short term visitors should go to the shop WiTo in the main street of Tromsø and buy a day pass or a week pass.
– The timetable is also found in an app, Troms Reise. However, it’s quite difficult for an outsider to understand it. We therefore recommend you to ask at the tourist information, they can write the hours on a post-it for you.
– Well on board the bus, it’s much easier. Each bus stop is announced over the loudspeaker, and on little screens you can see the names of the next few stops.
Within the area mentioned in the article, a taxi wouldn’t be all that expensive. This is particularly true if two to four people share. Call 77 60 30 00 (Tromsø Taxi) or 02045 (DinTaxi). You must be able to give a correct address for a taxi to pick you up.
Locations on the island but out of the city centre
Despite the following locations all being out of the city centre, they are all still within walking / short bus ride distance.
What are the Northern Lights?
Prestvannet is an easy to reach island top lake
Prestvannet is a lake located only 20 minutes’ walk from the centre of town. It is the only large lake on the top of the island so is easily found on a map. Here there is a ski path that surrounds the lake, however there are many smaller paths down to the water’s edge where there is a full view of the sky. Over the years, lights have been introduced around the lake and new neighbourhoods have sprung up close by. Therefore, there is not 100% darkness and many photos will now have a purple haze which is caused by light pollution. However, don’t let this put you off, you will still be able to see the lights arching across the night sky and the lake is one of the popular spots for locals to go and watch the lights.
- Difficulty – Easy
- Light pollution – Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus lines – 28 and 40
Telegrafbukta offers beach and pier views
Telegrafbukta is a beach on the southern tip of Tromsøya. With great views to the east, south and west, it is perfect for seeing the lights when activity is good. You can either take the bus or walk from the centre which takes around 35 minutes. When solar activity is very weak, sometimes the lights can fade into the city light pollution in the north. Otherwise it is easy to access, there are plenty of seating areas, and a very close bus network to take you home again after standing in the cold for hours. Make sure to explore the area a little, the beach is great but there is also a small wooded area, a pier that stretches out into the sea, and the folkeparken museum of old architecture.
- Difficulty – Easy
- Light pollution – Low to Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus lines 33 (outward journey) and 34 (homebound journey)
Grønnåsen ski jumps are a unique viewing area
Once you leave the bus at the Echrehagen bus stop follow the sign to Grønnåsen Hoppsenter. The path will lead to an area with three ski jumps and is dark enough for good aurora shows. One of the medium sized ski jumps has a staircase that can be climbed, but can be extremely icy in winter, so be very careful. This area is also part of the ski route across the island, so be careful to not get in the way of cross country skiers, they show no mercy.
- Difficulty – Easy
- Light pollution – Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus line 24 (Echrehagen stop)
Langvannet / Rundvannet lakes offer solitude from the busier locations
On leaving the bus, walk a little uphill and on your left you will see a path which heads down to Rundvannet. It is a relatively small lake, but has unbeatable scenery. Trees hang over the lake and small open areas allow you to move freely and take reflection photos in autumn or frozen lake scenes in winter. Keep following the path into the woodland if you want to find Langvannet, another lake which is a little larger than Rundvannet with similar scenery.
- Difficulty – Easy
- Light pollution – Low to Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus lines 20 or 42 (Rundvannet stop)
Varden is a challenge to reach, but with vistas that can’t be beat
On leaving the bus, there are many small paths that lead up onto the hillside. Choose one, and continue to head upwards. A headlight is vital here and is treacherous in wintertime, therefore we recommend this hike in autumn only. Good cross-country skiers can reach Varden in wintertime by following the ski paths that cross the island. Varden is the highest point on the island of Tromsøya, and therefore has far reaching views of the surrounding island and neighbouring land masses.
- Difficulty – Moderate
- Light pollution – Low to Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus lines 20 and 42 (Varden borettslag or Varden snuplass stop)
Over Tromsø bridge and onto the mainland
Just over Tromsø bridge we come to the mainland. Already here you are moving away from the city light pollution little by little. On the mainland there are 3 main areas that are still within walking distance to get a show of the northern lights.
Fjellheisen cable car offers the classic northern lights view
Take the 26 bus from outside Peppe’s pizza restaurant in town and stay on until you reach the stop fjellheisen on the mainland. It may seem like the bus is going the wrong way at some point but just stay on, you will come to the stop eventually. If walking, walk over the bridge, stop by the arctic cathedral and continue walking uphill until you come to a eurospar. At the eurospar turn right and keep walking until you come to the cable car station. Once on the hillside there are plenty of locations to walk around and look for the lights. Some of the most famous pictures of Tromsø and the lights have been taken here!
- Difficulty – Easy
- Light pollution – Moderate
- Photography Potential – Very Good
- Bus route 26 (Fjellheisen stop)
Ramp up those steps on the Sherpatrappa
The cable car isn’t the only way to get up onto the hillside. There is also a staircase! Completed in 2019, the stone steps lead up from Tromsdalen below to the cable car station above. Built by Nepalese mountain trail builders, you know you’re on safe ground while on your way up and down the route. There is no lighting, so remember your headtorch if you plan on taking the journey in the dark. You can of course take the cable car up and walk down, or vice versa, but where is the fun in that? The steep journey should take between 25-35 minutes one way, so don’t wear too many layers, as you’ll burn up half way. Instead keep your warmest layers in your bag for when you are waiting for the lights near the top. When the snows arrive the stairs are covered, but the trail remains well trodden by locals. If you wish to try the route at this time remember to take crampons with you and always keep updated on the avalanche risks on the day.
- Difficulty – Autumn (Easy to moderate) Winter – (Moderate)
- Light pollution – Moderate
- Photography potential – Good
- Bus route 26 (Gaudalsvegen Stop) – Walk eastwards towards the valley until you come to Fløyvegen and turn right following the signs for Sherpatrappa/ Fløya.
Tromsdalen Valley is dark and atmospheric, the perfect aurora setting
Once exiting the bus, head towards the valley by following the road eastwards. Eventually you come to a wide path which continues well into the deepest parts of the valley. Keep walking as far as you wish, as there are many turn offs where you can find places to sit or stand and wait for the aurora. In the winter, snow shoes or skis are important, as the path is an official ski path. However, there is a path on the side for walkers, but it is often not well maintained. Remember to wear reflective bands or clothing, and bring a headlight.
- Difficulty – Autumn (Easy), winter (Moderately)
- Light pollution – Low
- Photography Potential – Very Good to Excellent
- Bus route 26 (Gaudalsvegen Stop)
The Red Cross cabins in Tromsdalen Valley are quite a walk, but with views that challenge the most famous locations
For this location, follow the same instructions as seen for Tromsdalen valley. Continue to walk right to the end of the valley and eventually the path will veer off to the right or left after about 1.5 hours. Go right and up the hillside southwards. In autumn this is a moderately steep path, but nothing difficult for those with average fitness. In winter however, this hill will have ski tracks heading up, but will require equipment for avalanche risk and good ski experience/ snow shoes. Once you have reached the cabins there is a lake (buried by snow in winter) and a stunning view over the neighbouring mountain Tromsdalstinden. Due to the hillside hiding Tromsø, there is little to no light pollution from the city here, and is therefore a fantastic location for photographers. If you follow the path further past the cabins you come to an area with even more lakes and mountain scenery.
- Difficulty – Autumn (Easy), winter (Moderately)
- Light pollution – Low
- Photography Potential – Very Good to Excellent
- Bus route 26 (Gaudalsvegen Stop)
It all starts in Autumn
About the author
William Copeland is originally British but has lived in Northern Norway for many years. He came to study geology at Tromsø University and later specialised in marine geology and geophysics. Alongside his studies, he worked as a northern lights guide from 2016 to 2019, cumulatively taking thousands of visitors on northern lights chase tours. Despite no longer guiding, William still spends most of his time researching, photographing and predicting the northern lights, alongside photography of Northern Norway’s vast landscapes and shifting weather.