Come to Harstad for relaxed Northern Lights hunting

Directly beneath the Northern Lights oval, in a sheltered spot by a beautiful fjord and surrounded by snow-covered forests and mountains, you’ll find Harstad.

Its attractive, colourful city centre, important historic sites, surprisingly vibrant gourmet scene, and lively cultural calendar make it a welcoming new discovery.

Relatively few visitors come to Harstad in winter, but for the independent traveller, the city offers a chance to experience northern local life and seek the Northern Lights in a relaxed, hassle-free setting.”

Northern Lights the easy way – go into the forest

There is an easy way of spotting the Northern Lights in Harstad. You can simply be taken into the forest near the city. No long distances are involved, but you are at a comfortable distance from the city lights.

Here, a lavvu – a Sami tent – awaits with a warming fire and hot drinks. Patience is a keyword, as Aurora – this celestial diva – of course keeps us waiting. The time is spent trying one’s luck at snowshoeing and tobogganing, listening to stories from the area – they are mostly true – and maybe taking a walk in the forest if the snow isn’t too deep.

A bit of photo help – arranging your tripod and fiddling with your camera – is also an option. And when the Northern Lights turn up, you are on the front row.

Set sail for the Northern Lights

Harstad has one of the most original Northern Lights options: sailing. A couple of sailing enthusiasts invite you onboard their sailboat, and you glide silently into the night.

The mandatory waiting time is spent looking at stars and distant lights, listening to stories from the hosts’ circumnavigation of the globe, and sipping hot drinks. Imagine seeing the Aurora dance over the rigging and shrouds, with the lights from Harstad and the little villages around as a string of pearls in the distance.

Your hosts take you where the weather conditions are best in the fjord system around the Vågsfjord – and for you, it’s effortless and in tune with the sea.

What if the weather is really bad?

Sometimes, snow clouds clog the horizon, or untimely rain comes in with the Gulf Stream. The sky is smothered by clouds, and it all seems hopeless. Then it can be difficult to imagine that there could be clear skies only a short drive away.

The maze-like geography of the Harstad area, with fjords, mountains, and islands, means that the weather can vary considerably within a short distance. Northern Lights chasers then take you by minivan into the Arctic night, hunting for clear skies.

Aurora hunts involve more effort, but the hit rate is higher than at a fixed location. Hot drinks, sweet treats, and a bit of guiding around the area shorten the wait.

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See the Northern Lights on your own

In Harstad, spotting the Northern Lights on your own is easy and safe. Dress warmly, grab tips from the tourist board, and explore by foot, snowshoes, skis, or car. Reflective items, a headlamp, a flask of coffee, and a snack (like the Norwegian hiking favourite, Kvikk Lunsj) are all handy to bring along.

Good places to watch the lights abound around Harstad

For a simple night walk, follow the coastal path from the city centre to Trondenes, where you can leave the city lights behind and explore near the historic 13th-century church.

For a higher vantage point, head up to the TV tower northwest of the city – great for unobstructed Northern Lights views. Gangsåstoppen, a small hill south of the centre, offers a full view over Harstad’s lights and makes for excellent photos if conditions allow.

Lastly, Maistua cabin provides a cosy shelter, while the area around it offers scenic views and easy walks in most winter conditions.

Explore winter landscapes in daylight

The short winter day must be used to the maximum, and in Harstad absolute beginners can learn to play in the snow. Snowshoeing requires no skill or training; it’s basically just hiking.

With a guide, you do an easy hike uphill to Mount Keipen, from where there is a commanding view across the fjord to mountains and islands.

Another option is to learn Norway’s national sport. A trained and merited cross-country skier teaches you the basic moves, and then you go for a spin in the floodlit ski track in the forest above Harstad. A tour in Norway always involves an al fresco coffee break with a sweet reward.

See the city on foot with a local guide

A walk around Harstad is a delight, with colourful houses dating from every decade since the late 19th century in an attractive hotchpotch. The view towards the fjord and distant mountains is omnipresent.

An informal guided tour on foot with a local guide will take you to some of the fine houses in town, to the best viewpoints with photo ops, and through Harstad’s history. Of particular interest is the harbour promenade with its many art installations.

Explore Harstad by e-bike or cross-country skis – day or night

Yes, even in winter, you can explore Harstad by e-bike! In town, you can hire sturdy e-bikes with studded tires, so you can ride through town and villa areas or venture out to scenic spots like Trondenes and Røkenes. Daytime rides offer stunning landscapes, while evening outings might even give you a chance to see the Northern Lights.

If skiing is more your style, cross-country skis are also available for hire. Beginners can enjoy floodlit trails around the city, while experienced skiers can head to Kvæfjordeidet for a darker, starlit experience with the possibility of aurora sightings.

Harstad is the historic heart of the north

Although Harstad didn’t receive its city charter until 1903, its history runs deep. During the Viking Age, some of the region’s most powerful chieftains resided around Harstad. The 13th-century Trondenes Church, the charming 250-year-old farmhouse at Røkenes, and numerous other sites all give a strong sense of history in the area.

Trondenes Church is the world’s northernmost medieval church

Built in the early 13th century in early Gothic style, Trondenes Church saw construction pauses that extended its completion to around 1440. Inside, it’s richly adorned with three Gothic triptychs from Germany, a neoclassical organ, and baroque furnishings. Around the church, remnants of 12th-century fortifications remain, built to protect an earlier 12th-century wooden church.

Trondenes Historic Centre Brings History to Life

The Trondenes Historic Centre covers the full story of the area. A 2,500-year-old bronze necklace, a large Iron Age cauldron, and countless other artefacts are presented in easy-to-follow exhibits. Detailed reconstructions of a medieval turf house and stave church can also be admired on the hillside above.

The darkest chapter is the most recent, told through Konstantin Seredintsev’s diary, recounting his mistreatment and death in 1943. The remains of his prison camp – “we were brought here to die” – are visible near the church when the ground is snow-free.

The Adolf Gun is A WWII Giant

Trondenes overlooks the waterway into Narvik, where iron ore from Sweden is exported. During the war, Nazi Germany wanted to block any Allied ships from entering, so massive guns were built here by Soviet forced labourers, including the “Adolf” gun. Konstantin was among them. Today, this giant gun, which can hit targets up to 42 km away, is accessible on organised tours through the Tourist Board.

Harstad is a small city with a lively centre

Harstad is home to around 25,000 people. Its compact centre is a charming blend of elegant art nouveau buildings, traditional Norwegian wooden houses from the same period, and modern structures. By day, the city offers cosy cafes, good shopping, and a surprisingly strong selection of high-quality dining.

Seek out unique shops

Is there still fun in shopping when everything’s available online? Harstad has a few spots worth a visit. “Prøvetrykk” (Test Print) creates custom posters, postcards, or coasters with your own design.

“Vakre Vene” caters to the mature woman, while Bakerinnen – the bakeress – is known for her creative take on classic cakes, which you can enjoy there or take away. Skafferiet is a delicatessen with local specialities, including great gift options to bring home.

Kvæfjordkaka is a sweet temptation

Norway’s national cake – we like to declare a few ‘national’ things – is called Kvæfjordkaka. It’s made with layers of rum, vanilla, and meringue, created by two sisters from nearby Kvæfjord who ran a patisserie in Harstad. Now beloved throughout Norway, it’s a favourite at weddings, baptisms, and confirmations.

The tourist board suggests trying the classic kvæfjordkake at Trondenes Historical Centre’s café. For an inventive twist, try Bakerinnen. Or, like us, try both.

Harstad is the gourmet capital of the north

Some people come to Harstad just for the food. The young chefs at Umami are celebrated for their precisely crafted menus of local ingredients – be sure to reserve a table here as early as possible.

For a more relaxed vibe, Bark offers a menu that blends world flavours with local traditions. Equally cosy and popular among locals is Alo (dialect for “fuss” or “noise”).

Gois brings the tastes of Asia to the north. The historic atmosphere of Røkenes farm makes it worth the trip out of town.

Tapp Bar serves up microbrews from across Northern Norway, offering sustenance of a different kind. And for good coffee and croissants, Esencia’s playful Paris-meets-Norwegian-hut interior is the perfect setting.

Harstad has a mild, snowy Winter climate

Though it sits some 300 km north of the Arctic Circle, Harstad’s winter climate is relatively mild. In the coldest months, average temperatures hover around -3°C. The Vesterålen archipelago buffers Harstad from ocean storms, providing a sheltered location. Weather varies from cold spells reaching -10 to -15°C, to snow showers and occasional rain. Snow is generally reliable from sometime in December through mid to late April.

Harstad offers comfortable hotels

In central Harstad, you’ll find several mid-range to first-class hotels. During weekends and quieter winter periods, favourable rates are often available. A couple of budget options also exist. The local tourist board’s website lists charming spots outside the city, which make excellent Northern Lights viewing points.

Getting to Harstad and around is easy

Harstad/Narvik Airport is found some 40 minutes from Harstad. Here there are direct connections to Oslo with several airlines. An airport express bus goes into Harstad. One can also go by train from Oslo through Trondheim to Fauske. From there, there is a bus connection to Harstad. However, this will take around 24 hours. Check public transport by bus and train on the EnTur website. There is also the option to take the train from Stockholm through Kiruna til Narvik. From there, it’s a two hour bus to Harstad. Finally, the legendary Hurtigruten shipping line, these days sharing the service with Havila, sails for 3 and a half days from Bergen, calling at Harstad in the early morning.

Combine Harstad with other destinations in the north

Many winter travellers, however, visit Harstad as a stop on the way between various other destinations in the north. From Tromsø there is a 3 hour catamaran ride to Harstad, with 2-4 departures a day. Narvik and the railhead of the Ofotbanen railway into Sweden is reached by bus in a good 2 hours. The bus to Sortland in the Vesterålen Islands is a short affair including a little ferry crossing. From there, there is an onward connection to Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands.