Venture Around Hidden Senja Island at a Leisurely Pace

No wonder why everyone talks about the Norwegian Scenic Route along Senja Island’s outer coast. It is a stretch of unparalleled beauty. However, instead of heading straight to the whales in Andenes or to busy, merry Tromsø, one could give Senja a bit more time. This big island is a micro-continent with many kinds of landscapes literally half an hour apart. To help the free-spirited, curious, and independent traveller, we have created this guide to beautiful scenery, low-key attractions, easy hikes to picturesque places, and local communities that blend in with and stand out from the stunning scenery around them. We start on Senja’s friendly south coast, make a detour to a western fjord before we end up along Senja’s inside.

Tranøya is the old centre on Southern Senja

Once, the island of Tranøya was the centre of everything in Southern Senja. All the small settlements could easily sail to Tranøya to go to church, trade and meet others. The church dates from the late 18^th century, and the vicarage is a gem of houses from the 18^th and 19^th centuries. By appointment, one can go there for a couple of nights’ stay in perfect solitude.

Go to Senja’s southwestern tip for fishing stories

Skrolsvik is a small fishing village where the road ends at the southwestern tip of Senja. The mixed and colourful houses surround a calm port, where fishing boats and catamarans to Harstad come in. Stop here for a visit to the Halibut Museum to hear about traditional fishing – it is well-explained, humorous and quickly done – and finish off with a coffee at the old shop. The more adventurous of course do the steep ascent to Mount Sjursviktinden, at 791 metres, which should take you most of the day.

The Rødsand detour is Senja in a nutshell

On the way to Skrolsvik, the detour to Rødsand is delightful. A low pass between fjords takes you along the Olaheimvatnet lake with its little islands and cluster of farms to a small fishing village. Here the red boat houses around the port form a backdrop for views to the steep, monumental Lomstinden across the fjord. A few kilometres that sum up Senja.

Stonglandet is Senja’s southern extremity

The village of Stonglandseidet boast both a supermarket and an urban coffee shop. From here, one can make detours to the green peninsula of Stonglandet. Follow the western, outer coast to the Hofsøy village museum, a little farm with houses dating back partly to the late 18^th century. This is also where you can start the Dronningstien hike to the southern tip of Senja. On the other side of the Peninsula, Leirpollfjellet is an easy hike rewarding you with views to distant islands around the fjord system south of Senja.

Ånderdalen national park is Senja’s quiet core

The valley of Ånderdalen is a patch of primeval forest, where gnarly, twisted pines grow among bogs and lakes. Some of the pines are 600 years old, others have given up the ghost to the delight of birds and insects. Easy trails criss-cross the valley and take you on planks across wetlands up to viewpoints. Choose between easy trails lasting a couple of hours and a five day hike along the spine of the island. And a few in-between.

Cross the keel of Senja for classic fjords

There is a different Senja less than an hour away. From the deep forests of the Kaperdalen Valley, there is a steep ascent above the treeline. At an altitude of 368 metres, you reach the highest point, and the descent on the western side is steep. Stop at the lake when coming down and view the road twist and turn in hairpin bends through the narrow valley, with the fjord blinking down there. It all feels wild. But the minute you reach the fjord, it all changes; Farms, houses and boathouses line the calm, protected fjord, and it at feels inhabited. However, there is always a view to steep, dark mountains. The Sifjord is thus a classic fjord.

Discover the villages along the Sifjord in Senja’s southwest

The Sifjord makes a deep cut in the coastal range, and the northern shore is a strip of dense habitation. Boathouses line the shore, wooden piers with boats anchored up puncture the calm waters. Colourful houses of various ages surround the winding, narrow road, forcing you to drive slowly. Sifjord, Medby and Kaldfarnes lie as a string of pearls along the shore, and it feels green and welcoming. To reach the outer most village, Grunnfarnes, the road meanders up a hill with great views, before descending into a long line of houses. Out here, if feels a bit more maritime and exposed than further in, with flowery meadows swaying in the breeze in summer.

Flakstadvåg is Senja at its remotest

From the head of the Sifjord, a narrow road leads along rocky outcrops and big boulders under pointed mountains – all clad in lush foliage – to the remote village of Flakstadvåg. Despite its minuscule size, it has a modern feel with a busy port serving the salmon farms around the fjord. The view to the mountain of Lomstinden is breathtaking, and you can go for a short walk along the shore to the stream Finnelva. And most of all wonder about life in a remote location like Flakstadvåg.

Senja’s inland hides a beautiful secret

Dense forests cover the lowlands east of Senja’s keel range. Along some of the rivers, one finds small settlements. People here are in part of Sámi origin, forming a particular group among this ethnicity. One of their traditional houses is preserved, the “Nikolaigammen” – a very simply turf hut attesting to a lifestyle much more tied to nature that modern people can imagine.

The Gisundet Strait separates Senja from the mainland

The regional centre of Finnsnes is positioned where the Gisundbrua bridge spans the sound of Gisundet. When you drive around this maritime highway, you are surrounded by rich farmlands. In summer, one flower meadow gives way to the next.  Gibostad used to be an important meeting place along the waterway, attested by a well-preserved little port area currently under renovation. This is a place for coffee and relaxation.

Go to Bjorelvnes for old stories and Senja views

Along the mainland side, a local road takes you to Bjorelvnes. The stately late 19^th century church looms over a settlement with architecture of all ages. The vicarage is where you stop; here there is a little museum, Lenvik museum, telling stories from local history. The little Sami exhibit talks about long-standing connections with the northernmost parishes in Sweden. Then you go down to the sound and have a look at the traditional boats. It’s all peaceful yet whispering of a rich history.